mokie | The things I do in the name of science...

It is sometimes frustratingly difficult to find reliable information on the qualities of oils and butters. One book or site makes an outrageous claim, and three more copy it. Then five more see those claims, tone them down into something that sounds reasonable, and put them out there again. Next thing you know, every oil and butter out there is supposed to be just great for skin conditions, but none of them can tell you the hows or whys of it.

Mango butter, for instance, "treats eczema and dermatitis," says site after site with the same copied and pasted text.

Even though it's high in oleic acid, which is believed to exacerbate dermatitis? Even though "[d]uring mango's primary season, it is the most common source of plant dermatitis in Hawaii" and "[c]ross-reactions between mango contact allergens and urushiol [the itch-inducing chemical in poison ivy and oak] have been observed"? (Hello Wikipedia!). Even though it is supposed to have 'regenerative qualities' that restore skin cells and reduce wrinkles, which would be a problem with forms of dermatitis characterized by overproduction of skin cells?

I want to believe because I have mango butter. I've made some lovely hand lotions with it, and I love that rich, velvety feeling. But I simply don't trust it on afflicted areas because it doesn't make sense as a dermatitis treatment, and I don't trust it on my face or scalp (where I'd need it) as it's fairly heavy and I have yet to find any information on its comedogenicity.

Well, reliable information. I find plenty on websites that also insist that cocoa butter won't clog your pores, which is like saying that cheesecake won't go straight to your ass and thighs.

If you poke around long enough, someone, somewhere, will try to explain that these oils and butters work because they're great moisturizers. That's nice, but it's pure nonsense, because eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis aren't simply fancy words for 'dry skin'. While moisturizing may alleviate the discomfort, so would slathering on a petroleum-based store-bought goo that simply blocks moisture from crossing the skin. It feels better, but that doesn't mean it's actually helping.

Thus my experiment in dandruff/dermatitis soap hit a rocky patch. I can compile a list of ingredients, rate which ones I think are more likely to help and why, but the process of soap-making is rough on the oils involved and without testing the oils themselves beforehand, I can't know, if the soap fails, whether it's because of the ingredients or the saponification process.

So formula #1 is going out for testing in butter/balm form instead! It's not exactly what I wanted (I was hoping a soap would get around the assorted inconveniences of oils), but it's a nice compromise and will probably work out better for my willing test monkeys, since it's more lotion-like and thus more familiar and soothing to the skin. Let the experiment begin!

First test monkey: me! More than twelve hours after applying it to my own patches, I've got smooth, soothed skin, no scales or flakes, and no itching. Yay! On the downside, I smell a bit like spice rack.

Current Mood: crafty

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Have you thought about looking at old patents as a means of research? As a note, if you find an old patent that explains the process for dandruff/psoriasis/etc treatment, you may be able to learn/use without having any issues with the law.

Most people don't realize that a patent is a time-limited device and incentive for opening up knowledge to the general public. They get 20 years (or less if they don't pay the taxes on it) to make a profit as the inventor. Just an idea. :)

I hadn't thought of that! I did stumble on a few patent applications for herbal treatments to be taken internally, just by way of casual research, but they didn't explain their science, it read like a lot of snake oil and I have some doubt about their ingredients. You know how the greenies are--"It's all natural so it must be safe!" ;)

Most of the classic OTC treatments that I know of are much the same as the current OTC treatments--some form of selenium disulfide, salicylic acid and/or pine tar. They don't change much because they're time-tested and proven to work, and most development has been to make the method of delivery less unpleasant. (Pine tar shampoo is a real mess, let me tell you.)

I'm hoping for something a lot more pleasant, and a lot better for the hair and skin overall. I've been poking around in the hippie/naturalist info and in the folklore, hoping to find hints that I could back up with logic, but the damn greenies and Pagans get in there and muck it all up with wild claims based on 'intuition.' Bah.

I shall take your suggestion, though, and see if the old grannies tried to market their family recipes... :D

I can test something if you want, tho I know geography wise I am stunted.
Mango is a hot food (in the chinese sense)for me and makes me very rashy indeed, you may as well just go for seafood juice ;)
Obviously I have to be careful with palm or coconut products, but I am fine to try other things, even the mango :) I have some really bad dermatitus that would make a good test subject ;)

This batch is heavy on the food allergens, including coconut. (Also: soy, peanut, and tree nut oils.)

It seems like every ingredient I find that is supposed to help with skin issues causes skin issues in many folks. I'm hoping to find a couple of different formulas that work well, so that if a person can't use Balm #1 (nut-heavy), they can try Balm #2 (with tea tree and emu oil), and if they can't use that one either, they can try Balm #3 (with jojoba and thyme!).

I intend to have #3 in progress within two weeks, if you're still willing to test. Do you have any sensitivities to hemp oils or beeswax?

I would risk anything except the coconut on myself :)

Is emu oil, really made from emus?

Am fine with hemp and beeswax....

Diggeth! I shall send some your way as soon as it's made! :)

It's really made from emus. It's emu lard, even. It's a wonder those birds ever die, from all the stuff I've heard about this oil.

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life in mokievision

always a cameron, never a ferris

The things I do in the name of science...

The things I do in the name of science...

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